Bistek Angeleno - Stout Velveted Buffalo/Carabeef Sirloin · Raw egg basil dip · Suka-mansi pickled onions · chopped serrano chili · Guac ·

About halfway into my first year living in the Bay Area, the Golden State Warriors and their raucous local fans were raging through the later legs of the 2016 NBA Playoffs. A new kid in town and a lifelong Laker fan, I respectfully waded through the party like a concert staffer at your favorite band's reunion tour. Lonely affairs were those games. So in the spirit of fan loyalty, a little nostalgia, and parties of one, I present: the Bistek Angeleno.

Call it a misnomer. The only thing angelic about this dish are the symbolic halos of citrus-kissed pickled onion rings. After (under) that, it gets dark. This is no happy meal. For the escapist: traces of stout beer in the braise. For the tired and hardened: grisly velveted buffalo sirloin chunks. For the masochist: fresh hot chilies. For the fighter: a page from Rocky with the raw egg dip. And for the solitaire: well, this was "plated" as a kamayan—a party-specific format, yet it's clearly for one. It's "an allegory to the gritty Angeleno," I announced on Instagram. Obviously, Los Angeles faces far more pressing woes than the local teams' fall from grace. This stupid meal doesn't change any of that but against the backdrop of the city's outward imagery of sunshine-overload, it's important to acknowledge other parts of the whole.

The dish is an offshoot of Bistek Tagalog which in itself is a burly low-frills comfort choice. Adaptations here include showings of guac and serrano chilies for a pointed SoCal look. Still, context is real. This was concocted while in the Bay Area. The reactionary nature of this meal's narrative makes it as much about the Bay as it is about SoCal. The literal meat of this thing (seared buffalo) and the reduced dark sauce seem to speak to the rugged terrain and colder weather that marks this side of California. Anyway... the name stands.